We all know how easy it is to tweak the hues of a photo in post production software like the dreaded photo@#!%, a word we do not speak here at light painting photography, but do you understand what the hell you are actually doing when you change the color? Well friends what you are doing is changing the temperature of the image. All light color is measured in degrees Kelvin, named after engineer and physicist William Thomson, 1st Baron Kelvin. We could get into his scientific theory but I would have to pretend to understand it which I don’t. Basically in the world of light painting photography all you need to know is that the lower the Kelvin temperature the “warmer” or more yellow the light appears and the higher Kelvin temperature the “cooler” or more blue the light will appear. In the next post I’m going to get into white balance, why color temperature matters, and how to get some cool effects by tweaking the white balance of your camera in turn changing the color temperature of your image and keeping your light painting images SOOC (Straight out of Camera). Check the chart below.
A simple solution for those that can’t figure out how to wire those damn LED’s. Check out this light painting photography tutorial on how to create a simple ORB maker. HERE
This is a new light painting video tutorial by Trevor Williams and Fiz-iks about the lights used to create their magic. I really like the way these light painting tutorials are put together, they are informative and entertaining at the same time. Trevor has a whole series of these videos planned so stay tuned for more as they become available! View the first video in the series HERE.
Here is a brief run down of the type of lights we use for light painting. Feel free to ask any questions in the comments. Read about our gear on our homepage at http://www.fiz-iks.com/gear
Light Writing Graffiti Tutorial by Pips:lab
Photographic light recording.
Light stencils are an easy way to add in graphic elements to long exposure shots. Basically, this is fired in the frame while the shutter is open during a long exposure. The graphic remains while the person and box is completely invisible.
Watch the vid and make a box as directed. Using any illustration program print out your design onto fine grade paper which is slightly heavier than regular copy/printing paper. I print 2 and paste them together but make sure they are perfectly aligned by holding them up against a bright light source. I laminate mine so they can be reused as they often rip when removed or changed but this is not a necessary step.
I usually set the flash to 1/8 which works well with the settings I use on my camera for light @painting. You may need to adjust this and I suggest doing a test shot before your light work to check the exposure of the stencil. Happy shooting!
by Trevor Williams